APC EP Zero ARF Specifications download pdf (Page 4)

After covering your iron, the next step is to set the iron to the cor-

rect temperature. This is critical for achieving a good result! The

iron should be set to about 220

F - 250

F (104

C - 121

C) as

measured on the bottom of the iron using a thermometer.

If you do not have a thermometer, you can find the correct tem-

perature by trial and error. Set your iron to a medium setting.

Glide the iron over some of the covering that is over solid wood,

such as the sheeted wing center section. Observe the covering

to see if any bubbles appear. If bubbles appear, the covering is

getting too hot! Turn down the temperature of the iron and repeat

the test.

If no bubbles appear, turn up the heat slightly and repeat the test.

Keep adjusting until you “zero in” on the correct temperature. Find

the temperature that will get the covering to stick down without

forming bubbles or causing the seams to pull away.

Once your iron is set to the correct temperature, go over the entire

framework of the airplane, making sure that the covering is se-

curely bonded to the structure everywhere the covering comes in

contact with the wood underneath. This takes some time, but is

worth the effort.

After you have all the covering secured onto the solid areas, turn

the temperature of the iron up to approximately 300

F - 320

(149

C - 160

C). This is the correct temperature for shrinking the

covering material.

Use the iron to tighten up any wrinkles in the “open” areas of the

model (no wood underneath the covering). Glide the iron over the

wrinkle for a few seconds, then remove. Repeat until the covering

is tight with no wrinkles.

If wrinkles keep coming back on the tail surfaces, you may need

to “ventilate” the areas between the ribs. Otherwise the air that is

sealed in those relatively small areas will expand when the heat

is applied and actually cause the covering to stretch instead of

shrink. Use a pin to poke a tiny hole in the covering between each

rib, on the bottom of the part. That will let the expanding air es-

cape and the covering to shrink properly.

Caution When Using Heat Guns:

You can also use a hobby-type

heat gun to shrink the covering, but you must be careful around

seams or color joints. Getting too much heat on the seams may

cause them to "creep" or come loose. You must also be careful

when using a heat gun when working around the windshield and

side windows - heat will distort the clear plastic material.

Recommended Temperatures:

To adhere the covering - 220

F - 250

F (104

C - 121

To shrink the covering - 300

F - 320

F (149

C - 160

NOTE: In this manual, any references to right or left, refer to your

right or left as if you were seated in the cockpit of the airplane.

The wings are designed as a 2-piece system, with separate right

and left wing panels joined by an aluminum tube Wing Joiner and

a hardwood locating Pin at the rear. Due to the high strength of

the wing joiner tube, the wing panels do not need to be perma-

nently glued together. Gluing them permanently together is op-

tional - your call. The obvious benefit to leaving the wing panels

separate is the fact that they can be easily transported or stored,

requiring a minimum of space.

To help protect your wings during the following steps we recom-

mend that you cover your work surface with a soft cloth or piece

of foam.

INSTALLING THE AILERON SERVOS

For the following steps you will need:

(1) Right Wing Panel

(1) Left Wing Panel

(1) Aluminum Tube Wing Joiner

(2) Servos with Mounting Screws (not furnished)

(2) 6” Servo Extension Chords (not furnished)

(1) Servo Y- Harness (not furnished)

❑ 1) Mount the aileron servos in the bottom of each wing panel.

a) The servo bays are precut for you but you’ll want to double

check the covering around the cutout to make sure it is sealed

down tight.

b) Install the rubber grommets and brass eyelets (supplied with

your radio system) into each aileron servo.

c) Install the control arms on the two aileron servos. The arms

should be at 90 degrees to the servo when the aileron control stick

on the transmitter is in neutral and the transmitter trims are in neu-

tral as well.

d) Before installing the aileron servos in the wing panels you

must attach a servo extension chord to the aileron servo wire. The

typical combined length required is approximately18”. A 6” exten-

sion chord will usually provide sufficient length. Plug the servo

plug into the extension chord and tape the plugs together for

added security.

e) Holding the wing panel with the wingtip UP, drop the end of

the extension chord into the servo mount cutout and then thru the

openings in the wing ribs, working it towards to the center end of

the wing panel. The plug on the end of the extension chord will

occasionally get hung up on the ribs, however by turning or gently

shaking the wing panel you can get it to fall through the openings

in the ribs, until it emerges at the end rib. Once you’ve got the

plug to the end rib, direct it through the round hole in the bottom

surface of the wing panel. By that time, the servo itself should be

next to the servo mount cutout and ready for mounting.

f) Fit the servo into the servo mount in the wing panel, (note

that the servo is positioned so that the servo arm is at the forward

end toward the wing leading edge). Take up any slack in the servo

chord as you insert the servo in the mount. Use a pin vise and a

small drill bit to drill small pilot holes in the servo mount for the

servo mounting screws. Use the screws supplied with your radio

WING ASSEMBLY

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APC EP Zero ARF Specifications Page 4

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